by Camilla Ridley
Italy's famous centre of fashion and design is the perfect place for a stylish weekend break or a speedy stop-over. Here's our concise guide to our favourite places in this dynamic city.
Camilla pictured here with the Duomo Cathedral in Milan wearing a versatile Ridley London customisable Emmanuelle cotton shirt dress in the olive wilderness print by Liberty of London
Like many, I tend to associate Italy with la Dolce Vita. Beautiful landscapes, amazing food, baroque architecture, extraordinary beauty and of course iconic artwork and historic cities like Rome, Florence and Venice. Other than for business, Milan is not somewhere I would put high on my list of travel destinations. Very much Italy's financial and industrial powerhouse, it has a slightly unfair reputation for being a bit of a cultural backwater. A place where Italian’s come to work, and most recently Londoners are moving to avoid much mooted tax rises.
But Milan is no Geneva. The city is the centre of Italy’s world renowned design and fashion powerhouses, the most innovative restaurants, cutting-edge art galleries and design boutiques. There is also a plethora of beautiful historic buildings including the magnificent gothic Duomo cathedral, Baroque palazzos, the esteemed La Scala opera house plus famous Da Vinci frescoes including The Last Supper. Milan is a city that’s heavy on quality and light on tourism, which makes it a perfect place to visit to sample a slice of chic contemporary Italian life. You just need to know where to look.
We recently spent a 24 hour August stop over in a very empty and overheated Milan. While quiet traffic free streets, climate controlled spaces, quiet restaurants and shops count for a lot, I would probably recommend visiting in spring or autumn where it’s more comfortable to get around. The metro and beautiful old trams are excellent, and like Paris, most of the sites, destinations and good restaurants are within easy walking distance.
Where to stay
Details of the chic Crossing Manzoni boutique hotel which is perfectly located in the cultural heart of Milan
We stayed in the very chic Crossing Manzoni Hotel, which comes highly recommended by Mr & Mrs Smith. Small but perfectly formed and located, Crossing Manzoni is more like staying in a friend’s chic Milanse apartment than a conventional boutique hotel. Centrally located around a charming courtyard off of a quiet backstreet, the hotel is in a fantastically central location with all the prime shopping streets, many of the best restaurants, the Duomo and La Scala Opera house literally around the corner. The owner, Mrs Carlotta, has personally designed the chic interiors and curated artworks and artefacts, and the rooms are spacious, comfortable and elegant. Her charming team led by the delightfully hospitable Sean went above and beyond booking fabulous restaurants, taxis, helping to arrange an impromptu photoshoot, looking after us and making our stay truly special. Crossing Manzoni Milan, really feels like a home from home. We couldn’t recommend it highly enough, particularly for those looking for an authentic Milanese experience. Address: Via Gerolamo Morone, 6, 20121 Milano MI, Italy. T: +39 (0)2 5006 5416
Where to eat
(Top) the chic design of the popular Casa Fiori Chiari in the heart of Milan. (Bottom left to right) Camilla enjoying her seafood pasta at Casa Fiori Chiari, the new Alegra statement silk maxi skirt in the hybrid print pictured here in Milan, enjoying delicious aperitivo at the Rinascente's roof terrace bar.
Like most cosmopolitan cities, Milan has an extraordinary array of international cuisine on offer and is home to some of the world’s finest and most innovative chefs and restaurants. For me, much of the joy of travel is cultural inspiration, and the opportunity of really immersing myself in a particular place. Food and restaurants are a perfect embodiment of local culture and energy, and a chance to fleetingly experience a slice of local life. So I love recommendations of great neighbourhood restaurants that specialise in excellent local and regional food, with great service in stylish, unstuffy environments. Sean at Crossing Manzoni came up trumps.
Breakfast: Marchesi
Home of the best Panettone I’ve ever tasted, Marchesi is probably Italy’s most celebrated patisserie and to Milan what La Dureé is to Paris. This is where the chic Milanese come to enjoy their daily espresso and some of the most exquisite little pastries you’ll ever taste. Now part of the Prada group, Marchesi has branches in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and on Via Montenapoleone, as well as a new outlet in London’s Mayfair. But for me, nothing beats a visit to their historic original store on Via S. Maria all Porta which is celebrating its centenary this year. A place of sugared craftsmanship and confected Italian wonder. Address: Via Santa Maria Alla Porta, 11/a, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Lunch: Locanda Alla Scala
This much loved local eatery just around the corner from the Scala Opera House comes highly recommended by the team at Crossing Manzoni, and it didn’t disappoint. The restaurant mixes a chic, intimate environment, excellent and knowledgable service with a seasonal menu featuring regional classics cooked with flare and refinement. I enjoyed their wonderfully fresh fish of the day, while Mark was absolutely ecstatic with his veal Milanese cutlet (well when in Rome!) which he reckons was among the best he’d ever tasted. All washed down with a glass of two of Greco di Tufo, Mastroberardino. Address: Via dell'Orso, 1, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Aperitivo:
Much like London, post work / pre-dinner evening drinks are an also big deal in Milan. Unlike London where a packet of crisps is the usual accompaniment, in Milan things are altogether chicer and gastronomically more refined. Think plates of cured meats, delicate canopies, wonderful olives, cubes of aged parmesan, caponata…the list goes on. We headed to the roof top bar of the Rinascente, (Milan’s answer to Harvey Nicholls) located just around the corner from the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The unique panoramic views of the city, and across to the rooftops of the Duomo opposite are worth the visit alone. Add a glass of Spritz or a Negroni into the mix on a warm evening, and this is an experience not to be missed. Address: P.za del Duomo, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Dinner: Casa Fiori Chiari
Again another insider recommendation, Casa Fiori Chiari is a popular new opening, particularly with the trendy media and design crowd of the Brera district where it’s located. Despite 140 covers it is reputedly difficult to get a table, and that’s because Casa Fiori Chiari is restaurant that gets it absolutely right. Set within a beautifully designed and re-furbished rustic building, the atmosphere is both elegant and relaxed. The menu is a mix of regional classics and Italian comfort food, including the best thin crust gluten free pizza I've ever tasted, along with a fabulous seafood pasta. Food wise they nail it. The wine list is excellent, the service impeccable. No wonder there's a real buzz here. Address: Via Fiori Chiari, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Where to shop
(Top Left to Right) Camilla pictured outside the original Prada store in the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II, and our versatile new printed silk shirt dress on the streets of Milan. (Bottom left to right) details of the interior of the Tearose and Laboratorio Niko Romito stores in Milan
As one of the world’s foremost fashion and design capitals, as you would expect, shopping in Milan is exceptional. The city is a destination for those with a discerning taste for the latest trends. As well as being home to many of Italy’s world-renowned luxury fashion houses, there is also a thriving community of new artisan ateliers and small boutiques, as well as independent concept stores and destination thrift and vintage shopping. Head to Via Montenapoleone and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to shop Luxury designer brands and towards Brera and Corso Como, for smaller emerging design lead labels and niche boutiques. We didn’t have a lot of time but visited a couple of places that came highly recommended.
1. Tearose
Located opposite the Armani Hotel in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, Tea Rose is a chic new concept lifestyle boutique mixing fashion, beauty, homeware and a Flower Lab. Everything is super-feminine and beautifully displayed with intricate compositions of colourful, seasonal blooms. Much of the clothing and soft furnishings are print driven reflecting the floral theme, and beautifully made. As you can probably imagine, I loved it and found it very inspiring. Address: Via Croce Rossa, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
2. Alessandra Camilla Milano
If you’re looking for unique, stylish and special jewellery, I really couldn’t recommend a visit to Alessandra Camilla on Via Solferino in the Brera district enough. The brand is an example of the new generation of artisans who embody the art of traditional craft in a contemporary, elevated way. Alessandra’s designs are exquisitely feminine and Each piece is handmade in Milan in 9k and 18k gold and precious, colourful gemstones. There is also a customisation service where you can work with Alessandra and her team to create an entirely unique piece from scratch. Address: Via solferino 3, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
3. Niko Romito Laboratorio
Laboratorio is the brainchild of celebrated Milanese 3 Michelin star Chef Niko Romito and a chance for you to enjoy and take home some of his ingenious flavours, without the hefty bill of visiting his restaurant at the Bulgari Hotel. As the name suggests, this minimalist store definitely feels more like a laboratory or beauty shop than a conventional food retailer. And everything is beautifully packaged, making it a great gift for foodie loved ones. Highlights include his gluten free panettone and pandora, vegan biscuits and low cal spreads. Address: Via Solferino, 12, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
4. Original Prada store Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
No trip to Milan would be complete without visiting the iconic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, possibly the most celebrated and beautiful retail environments anywhere. The airy belle eopque arcade is home to many of Italy’s most celebrated luxury brands, and none more so than Prada, who are still located in their original store which first opened it’s exquisite doors in 1913. Handbags and leather goods from classics to their latest collections are beautifully displayed alongside curated artefacts on the lovingly preserved fittings and counters from the original store. Themselves a testament to timeless Italian quality and craftsmanship. Even if you’re not in the market for a bag or wallet, it’s definitely worth a visit just to marvel at the elegance of the store design before heading across the polished marble and mosaic tiled floor of the arcade for a gelato at Motta. Address: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62, Milano MI, Italy
Ridley London's new collection of dresses, skirts, tops, and tailoring is available to purchase online and in Ridley's Barnes store. Celebrate your individuality with a unique piece that's customised to flatter in your choice of any of our stunning new printed florals or solid silks or luxurious velvets. Or call us to arrange a virtual fitting:
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